Thoughts on Tasmania

Pirates Bay on the Tasman Peninsula.

My sister and I both liked Tasmania. We liked that it is very rural, and found it even more easygoing and laid back than mainland Australia (the little island to the north according to one local Tasmanian).

We enjoyed driving the small roads and stopping in little towns. There seemed to be far fewer tourists here too, mostly older Australians and younger people looking for adventure and the great outdoors.

There are 19 national parks on Tasmania, with 40% of the island national parks, reserves and UNESCO World Heritage areas. With numerous hiking trails and campgrounds, there is almost no end to the possibilities.

This sign got our hopes up for seeing a Tasmanian Devil, but we didn’t get so lucky. The island is still dealing with a facial tumor problem and working with scientists to find a vaccine to a deadly problem.

Before our Bay of Fires walk, we drove out to the Tasman Peninsula, and toured the historically important UNESCO World Heritage Site Port Arthur. It tells the story of the forced migration of convicts by the British Empire. You can walk all the grounds and ruins of the prison, take a boat ride around Mason Cove and Isle of the Dead, and view the instruments of punishment (cat o’ nine tails) and even try on the shackles, but the individual prisoner stories were the most interesting part of the exhibit for me.

Port Arthur.org.au

A sculpture of The Dog Line. Dogs were used to keep prisoners on Port Arthur, and discourage escapes.
From the plaque at the Dog Line sculpture.
The penitentiary building at Port Arthur, originally built as a flour mill in 1845, converted into a prison between 1854 and 1857.

The prisoners had it very rough, many held for minor offenses. The Commandant and soldiers and their families however, had a much better life. There were gardens and fountains on site.

Leaving Port Arthur, we cruised through the small town of Richmond. Just outside of town we found Pooley Wines.

A bridge in the small town of Richmond.
Some of the vines at Pooley.
Pooley Wines in Tasmania.
We found a Pinot that we liked.

From Hobart we drove northbound on Highway 1 – the inland route – making its way through dry valleys and fields of sheep towards Launceston, passing through small towns, two of which are Oatlands and Ross. We stopped in Oatlands for coffee and walked up and down the one Main Street (no traffic lights). Stopping in at the Weaver’s Cottages Studio, we met Oscar, the owners adorable dog, and walked through the mill.

http://www.facebook.com/theweaverscottagesstudiooatlandstas

The weaver herself, at Weaver’s Cottage in Oatlands, Tasmania, holding a scarf she wove next to the loom she used to create it,
The Callington Mill, built in 1837, has been restored and is in full working order. hobartandbeyond.com.au

In Ross we stopped to take a look at the site of the women’s prison, and also found the Tasmanian Wool Centre.

Any question we ever had about the Tasmanian sheep/wool industry was answered at the Tasmanian Wool Centre in the small town of Ross. They were selling locally made products, including beautiful sweaters, dresses, and anything else you can imagine made from wool.
An exhibit of wool clothing at The Wool Centre.
There were piles of all the different types of wool which you could dig your hands in and really feel the difference in the wool. It was interesting.
Tasmanian sheep have won many ribbons and trophies.

We continued our drive northward and stayed the night at the Quamby Estate outside of Launceston and not far from Hadsby, where the Tasmanian Walking Co is based and we met to start the walk.

The Quamby Estate

After completing the Bay of Fires walk, we spent the following day checking out the area north of Launceston, known as the Tamar Valley.

Tamarvalley.com.au

They have some lovely rural areas and small settlements. We stopped into Small Wonders Vineyard for a wine tasting and enjoyed the beautiful but very windy view. Most of the time here has been windy, with only a few early mornings with calm winds.

The entrance to Small Wonder Winery, smallwonderwines.com.au.
Lovely artsy labels on the wine at Small Wonder.

Just past George Town we walked around a historic lighthouse and passed a sign for Fairy Penguin tours. Here is another spot where you can go out at sunset and watch the smallest penguins in the world come into shore to visit their burrows. I think this would be a good spot as there would be far fewer people to deal with here than at Phillip Island where we saw them. It was great and we were happy we did it, but to see them here with a handful of people would be really nice.

The Low Head Lighthouse near George Town, Tasmania.
Penguin sculptures.

We found it refreshing that at nearly every opportunity, whether it be a corporation or government entity, whoever was making an announcement began with something such as “…we want to acknowledge the indigenous people who were stewards of this land for thousands of years and did not relinquish sovereignty.” This happened on tours, on signs at museums, and in the public address on Quantas Airlines.

At the Port Arthur UNESCO World Heritage Site:

The Port Arthur Historic Site Management Authority acknowledges and wishes to pay respect to the Tasmanian Aboriginal Community, in particular, the Pydarerme people of the Paredarerme language group, as the traditional, original and continuing custodians of the land on which the Port Arthur Historic Site stands today. Cultural sites representing many tens of thousands of years of occupation still remain in the area, though many were destroyed or pillaged as a result of British settlement of the region.

Australian Government. Tasmania Government.

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