One Night in Stockholm

Stockholm harbour

Stockholm harbour

Nordiska Museum as seen from the ferry on our way into Stockholm harbour

Nordiska Museum as seen from the ferry on our way into Stockholm harbour

Only two hours by ferry, Stockholm city seems world’s away from the outer archipelago.  We almost had culture shock coming in from the quiet of the islands.  Between our arrival by ferry into Stockholm at 5 Pm and collapsing that evening, we covered a lot of ground.  We walked from the ferry dock to our hotel, witnessing the Stockholm rush hour on bicycle.

horse statue

Bicycle rush hour in Stockholm

Bicycle rush hour in Stockholm

Kungstradgarden

Kungstradgarden

The Nordic Sea Hotel where we are staying, had a nice room, good size for Europe, and a private bath.  Yay.  This hotel has the Ice Bar, which we hit prior to turning in.  After dropping our things in the room, we walked to Gamla Stan, about 20 minutes, for more sightseeing and window shopping.

dala horses

shop window

The restaurant I had hoped to try luckily had a table.  This particular restaurant, Den Glydene Freden has won many awards.  It lived up to its reputation and more, with my brother ranking one of the best meals of his life.   The brown bread they served tasted exactly like the home made bread my grandmother used to make and it started us reminiscing.  I had a very good crab salad to start, and then another fish dish I couldn’t pronounce for dinner.  My brother continues to compare Swedish meatballs at nearly every restaurant.  These got high marks.   Such a lovely place to sit and relax, we splurged on dessert.

Den Gyldene Freden in Gam la Stan

Den Gyldene Freden in Gam la Stan

Den Gyldene Freden interior

Den Gyldene Freden interior

Crab salad at Den Gyldene Freden

Crab salad at Den Gyldene Freden

restaurant exterior

We made a leisurely stroll of our walk back to the hotel, (not on Gamla Stan) and popped into the Ice Bar.

Gamla Stan's most narrow street, Marten Trotzigs Grand

Gamla Stan’s most narrow street, Marten Trotzigs Grand

The Parliament House at night.

The Parliament House at night.

The Ice Bar was a fun thing to do, but we only lasted 15 minutes in the -7 C temp of the room.  They rework the ice bar itself once per month, and the entire room once per year.  The bar tenders take shifts of 3 hours, which is longer than I expected.  The drink was good, served in a glass made of ice, which you “recycle” by dropping through a hole in the ice as you leave.

The Ice Bar in the Nordic Sea Hotel

The Ice Bar in the Nordic Sea Hotel

Me in the Ice Bar

Me in the Ice Bar

ice glass

 

Website for our dinner spot:  http://gyldenefreden.se/eng/start.html

Posted in Sweden | 1 Comment

Images of Sandhamn

We took several hours and walked all around the island of Sandhamn using the small gravel streets, a path through the woods and the shoreline.  These photos are from the walk.

Sandhamn Hotel

Sandhamn Hotel

Sandhman docks.

Sandhman docks.

hollyhocks

Waterfront houses along the approach to Sandhamn's harbor.

Waterfront houses along the approach to Sandhamn’s harbor.

dogs on the beach

The trail through the woods.

The trail through the woods.

L on rocks

Colorful rocks

Colorful rocks

east beachbaltic with sailboatbeach from rockssailboat

The Sandhman hotel's bar.

The Sandhman hotel’s bar.

In front of the only clothing shop in town.

In front of the only clothing shop in town.

Sandhamn from the ferry as we departed.

Sandhamn from the ferry as we departed.

beautiful boat

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Sandhamn

Sandhamn harbour

Sandhamn harbour

If I thought Vaxholm was all about boats, I hadn’t seen anything yet.  The two words I would use to describe Sandhamn are “serious boating.”  The Vaxholm area struck me as a more family fun boating area compared to the serious boaters here.   Bigger boats, and further out.   Lots of room for sailing, due east are the Baltic Sea, Estonia and Finland.

boats

We took the 1 1/2 hour ferry ride from Vaxholm to Sandhman.   It was a crowded ferry on a Sunday morning, with the usual dog or two.  Another sunny sky with not a cloud to dilute the blue.

One of the  beaches in Sandhman

One of the beaches in Sandhman

L on beach

There do not seem to be any cars on Sandhamn, only bicycles and ATVs.  The ‘streets’ are gravel lanes between the houses.  We walked a short distance to a beach, looking at the houses and enjoying the view, including an unending line of boats going in and out of the harbor.

Sandhman street

Sandhman street

A cute little house in Sandhamn

A cute little house in Sandhamn

Per Jan and Dawne’s suggestion, lunch was enjoyed at the Sandhamn Vardhus.  It’s a very popular spot and I had the fish soup.  Very good, but still not as good as my mother’s salmon soup.

Sandhamn Vardhus, a popular eating spot with very good fish soup

Sandhamn Vardhus, a popular eating spot with very good fish soup

The fish soup

The fish soup

Prior to dinner at the Sandhamn Hotel and Yacht Club, where we are staying, we walked the 25 minutes or so to the other beach.  The water was clear and cool, and we saw another of the large cruise ships come by heading east, presumably having departed Stockholm.

beach weston the beach

sun going down

almost sunset

Dinner was good.  The hotel, rooms and restaurant, is lovely in a very nautical way.  Tommy Hilfiger would think he’d died and gone to heaven.  The house wine, at 95 SEK per glass, was the best I have had since I got to Sweden.

The bar in the Sandhamn hotel, overlooking the docks

The bar in the Sandhamn hotel, overlooking the docks

Posted in Sweden | 1 Comment

Messing Around With Boats

 

Nice? It’s the ONLY thing,’ said the Water Rat solemnly, as he leant forward for his stroke.  `Believe me, my young friend, there is NOTHING–absolute nothing–half  so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats. Simply messing,’  he went on dreamily: `messing–about–in–boats; messing—-‘     From WInd in the Willows

The little boat we rented in Vaxholm harbor.

The little boat we rented in Vaxholm harbor.

 

I have never been and don’t claim to be a boater.  However, it does seem to be the thing to do on a sunny weekend in the Swedish archipelago.  I don’t go boating often, but I do know how to read a chart and am pretty good with directions.  So with my brother’s limited boating experience, we decided to rent a boat for four hours out of Vaxholm harbor and have a cruise around.

The cruise ship bearing down on us, coming out of Stockholms harbor.

The cruise ship bearing down on us, coming out of Stockholms harbor.

The waterways were full of both power and sailboats, and large cruise ships as well.  We putted around a bit sightseeing, and then found ourselves in the main channel into Stockholm harbor.  We saw a large cruise ship coming towards us, and idled over to the side to watch it pass (passengers waving from their balconies).

cruise ship

We saw many beautiful houses with docks, people gathering for parties, jumping into the water to swim.  We also saw a lot of swans.

A house in the archipelago with swans passing.   We saw many swans around the islands.

A house in the archipelago with swans passing. We saw many swans around the islands.

The man who rented us the boat pointed on the map to a small island where he said he had heard there was a restaurant but hadn’t been there himself.  We went to check it out, and did indeed find a restaurant.  The dock was small and packed with boats, pretty dicey for parking, but we got it done.  The tie down job would have made any sailor cringe, but it did the trick.

The restaurant on the small island.

The restaurant on the small island.

The restaurant was a casual, outdoor spot on a hill with great views and picnic tables.  The meal turned out to be one of the best fish dishes I have ever had.  My brother had a cheeseburger.  Lunch was as much as the boat rental, but was worth it.

L at picnic table

Another cruise ship, going into Stockholm, from the picnic table.

Another cruise ship, going into Stockholm, from the picnic table.

Our 605 SEK lunch.  It was very good.

Our 605 SEK lunch. It was very good.

We made it back to Vaxholm without any trouble.  It was a nice way to spend the afternoon and do some sightseeing.

Boat traffic, with Vaxholm in the background.

Boat traffic, with Vaxholm in the background.

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Gamla Stan, and Stockholm to Vaxholm by ferry

The east façade of The Royal Palace on Gamla Stan

The east façade of The Royal Palace on Gamla Stan

We had time for an early morning walk through Gamla Stan before boarding the ferry to Vaxholm at noon.  The tour groups were already on the streets by 8 am.

royral palace garden

A palace guard.

A palace guard.

The sign to the Livrustkammaren, the Royal Armoury museum and oldest museum in Sweden.  Gustav II's stuffed stallion from 1632 is in the museum

The sign to the Livrustkammaren, the Royal Armoury museum and oldest museum in Sweden. Gustav II’s stuffed stallion from 1632 is in the museum

We did some window shopping, which is all you can afford here.  The beautiful sweaters were around SEK 1800 – 1900.  The small Dala Hests were SEK 500.

SEK 1900 sweaters

SEK 1900 sweaters

Dala hests in the windown

Dala hests in the window

A street in Gamla Stan

A street in Gamla Stan

We went back to Stortorget square in the early morning light.   The fountain is off a well dated from 1778.

gamla stan square

The fountain in the square

We checked out of The Rica hotel in Gamla Stan and boarded a ferry to Vaxholm.  It was beautiful pulling out of the harbour and cruising through the islands.

The Rica lobby in Gamla Stan

The Rica lobby in Gamla Stan

Leaving Stockholm on the ferry to Vaxholm

Leaving Stockholm on the ferry to Vaxholm

Gamla Stan from the water

Gamla Stan from the water

in the harbour

sailboat

The ferry ride from Stockholm to Vaxholm lasted about one hour.  We had to take another small ferry to the b&b in the Kastellet.

The Kastellet, a small island fort near Vaxholm.  This is the b&b where we spent two nights.

The Kastellet, a small island fort near Vaxholm. This is the b&b where we spent two nights.

We walked the small town of Vaxholm and had lunch.  Lunch was reasonable, SEK 230 for two.  The last ferry to the b&b was at 5 pm.  A co-op and a farmers’ market provided snacks for dinner on the island, since there is no restaurant at the Kastellet.

Lunch spot in Vaxholm

Lunch spot in Vaxholm

shrimp salad

lunch

Farmers' market in Vaxholm

Farmers’ market in Vaxholm

Relaxing in the sun and waiting for the ferry to the b&b.

Relaxing in the sun and waiting for the ferry to the b&b.

Vaxholm, taken from the top of the tower on the Kastellet

Vaxholm, taken from the top of the tower on the Kastellet

Posted in Sweden | 1 Comment

A Very Warm “Welcome to Sweden!”

idylic

You couldn’t have asked for a nicer way to be welcomed to Sweden than what I was treated to today.  After arriving in Stockholm at 7 am, friends Jan and Dawne picked me and my brother up from our Gamla Stan hotel and drove us out to their lovely place in the archipelago.

Jan and Dawne have been here in Sweden all summer, enjoying what some say has been the warmest summer in years.  They have a truly spectacular place in the archipelago, secluded and quiet, with thier own boat dock.  The casually elegant spot belies the amount of labor it takes to keep the grass mown and nature at bay.  It is lovely beyond words.

Jan and Dawne's place in the Swedish archipelago

Jan and Dawne’s place in the Swedish archipelago

Jan and Dawne

Jan and Dawne

Jan and Dawne treated us to very tasty lunch, including shrimp, smoked salmon, brie, a wonderful salad and fresh veggies. Simple and elegant.

Jan at lunch

lunch

After lunch Jan and Dawne played tour guide as we cruised the local waterways.  You could easily get lost among these islands, but Jan grew up boating in this area and knows it well.  We marveled at the beautiful summer homes and boats along the shoreline.  The season is starting wind down at the end of August.  Many Swedes have the entire month of July off from work and spend it in the archipelago.  The end of August finds many people shutting the houses up for the winter.  NIghts begin to get very cool with daytime highs in the 70s.

dock

on the water

0n the boat

We stopped in for a quick visit with Jan’s boyhood friend Stephan, and his wife Anne.  They also have a lovely summer house on the water.

Stephan on the dock of his archipelago summer house.

Stephan on the dock of his archipelago summer house.

Stephan and Annes house

It was wonderful to have such a lovely start to a vacation.  I’ve been to Stockholm before, but never to the archipelago.  Being invited into people’s homes, meeting new friends and experiencing a warm and friendly welcome was the best part.  Everything seems so clean and orderly.

With jetlag beginning to take its toll on me, we headed back to Gamla Stan and the RIca Hotel before sunset.  A very quick stroll around the old town proved I had not forgotten the streets and squares and sites of this part of Stockholm, the “city between the bridges.”  Gamla Stan is quite a popular place, with about a dozen restautrants per block, if not more.  There are shops, museums, churches and the Royal Palace on this small island in the city.  The most recognizeable and most photographed buildings are in Stortorget square, where I stopped for this photo just before sunset.

The most photographed square in Gamla Stan at twilight.

The most photographed square in Gamla Stan at twilight.

A Gamla Stan shop window.

A Gamla Stan shop window.

Posted in Sweden | 5 Comments

Lighter-Than-Air

scenery

Lighter-Than-Air:  A Bird’s eye view of the Willamette Valley Wine Country

The air is cool and still in the predawn hours at the Newberg Sportsman Airpark.  41 guests are gathered here to participate in a unique kind of flight experience.  It is precisely this still air that is required for these towering yet fragile flying machines.  The instructions were to meet ½ hour prior to sunrise at the airpark.  Hot air ballooning is a labor intensive operation, and as the guests check in, the ground crews gather in preparation for the mammoth task of unrolling the bags of colorful balloon material and dragging out the large wicker baskets. 

Unrolling the balloon from the bag.

Unrolling the balloon from the bag.

Due to the wind direction, this morning we must move the launch site from the airpark to a field a few miles away.  The wind speed and direction is the deciding factor in everything to do with ballooning.  Guests and crew are shuttled in the chase vans to the new launch site.  It takes a ground crew of 4 to 5 people for each balloon.  You are more than welcome to help with the set up if you are so inclined, and quite a few guests step in to lend a hand.  At one point, two “volunteers” are required.

We are all here to experience first hand the amazing feat of flight without wings:   Physics in action, warm air rises.  Vista Balloon Adventures has 6 such machines, each holding up to 10 passengers.  The entire experience lasts 3 ½ hours, including the set up time, the flight, and the brunch.

early morning muster

Although the air may be still and most of the land quiet, preparation for lighter-than-air flight is anything but peaceful.  First, the wicker baskets (yes they are wicker) are dragged off the trailer.  Not an easy task.  Second, the very heavy bag full of the balloon cloth (the same material as parachutes) is also dragged out and then carefully unrolled.  The next big task is to attach the balloon material to the basket and fill the balloon with cool air.  As this is done, the rigging is attached to the top of the balloon.  This is where the passenger volunteers come into play.  My sister holds one side of the business end of the balloon open as two fans blow cool air into the interior.

Using two large fans, the balloon is filled with cool air.

Using two large fans, the balloon is filled with cool air.

Once the balloon is inflated with cool air and the rigging is set, it is time to heat the air.  Now is when it really gets noisy.  The two propane tanks are lit and blasts of flame are directed into the inflated balloon.  The heat from the propane blasts is intense. 

Heating the air in the balloon.

Heating the air in the balloon.

heating the air 2

It doesn’t take long for the air to heat, and as the balloon moves from a horizontal to vertical position, the guests are instructed to climb into the basket. 

starting to rise

The balloon is starting to rise.

upright

Going vertical.

Things are moving fast now, and there is no time to hesitate. 

everybody in

My mother, my two sisters, Joe, me, and pilot Chris, ready to go.

My mother, my two sisters, Joe, me, and pilot Chris, ready to go.

With passengers loaded and the balloon vertical, Chris blasts more heat into the balloon interior and we lift off. 

One by one the five balloons rise and take flight like so many dandelions drifting in the breeze.

first off

lift off

Once airborne, the only noise is the occasional blast from the propane tanks.  It is quiet now and you feel no breeze because we are moving with the wind.  The flight is both exhilarating and calming at the same time.  The balloons drift apart as the pilots look for air currents by testing different altitudes.  This is the quiet flight part that most people think of as ballooning.  It has taken quite a bit of preparation to get to this point.  Chris patiently answers our questions and occasionally adds heat to the balloon to control our altitude.

balloon on horizon

sunrise balloons

We drift with the breeze enjoying the view and the peaceful atmosphere.  All of the Willamette Valley with its fields of crops and ringed with hills of grape vines is laid out below us.  We watch the other balloons and soak up the beauty of it.

2 balloons

3 balloons

The first balloon in the air was piloted by Vista Balloon Adventures owner Roger Anderson, who is now, as radio communications between the pilots reveal, making a decision on the landing site.  Roger decides on a large field just upwind of the town of Newberg.  We are at the highest altitude when that decision is made, and it proves to be an issue.

Three of the balloons near the open field landing site.

Three of the balloons near the open field landing site.

Some of the balloons touch down in the field.

Some of the balloons touch down in the field.

We watch as the balloons one by one touch down in the field.  It is obvious that we are too high.  We descend as quickly as possible, but it just isn’t going to work.  We touch down at the far end of the field, but the spot isn’t right (too close to wires).  Our pilot abandons the landing attempt and we shoot back into the air as both propane tanks are opened fully and two flames blast hot air into our balloon.  We rise quickly, and the chase van is told “We’re going over the river.”  The air current drifts us past the river and directly over the small town of Newberg.  There are far fewer options now and this landing is getting interesting. 

Tree top level, looking for a spot to land in Newberg.

Tree top level, looking for a spot to land in Newberg.

We drift at tree top level over houses, roads and parking lots.  People in bathrobes come out to wave, cars pull over to watch, and barking dogs run in circles in their back yards.  Several possible sites are abandoned, and we see how much we are at the mercy of the wind.

Our shadow on the trees

Our shadow on the trees

This type of landing, in a downtown parking lot surrounded by wires, looks to be much more difficult than touching down in an open field.  Chris has spotted a parking lot next to a coffee stand and the chase van is directed to the location.  Our ground crew jumps out, rapid fire radio communications fly back and forth between the balloon and the chase crew.  I’m slightly apprehensive and thinking to myself that this is an awfully small area close to a lot of electrical wires, but the wind is blowing us away from the wires, and I’m not the pilot here, just a passenger, so my role is just as an observer and I keep my thoughts to myself. 

The coffee barn parking lot/landing zone

The coffee barn parking lot/landing zone

The ground crew hold the anchor line as Chris lowers the balloon to the asphalt.

The ground crew hold the anchor line as Chris lowers the balloon to the asphalt.

An anchor line is dropped and the five ground crew hold us over the spot.  The experience of the pilot and the ground crew are evident as the balloon and basket are jockeyed into a safe position and we slowly lower to the asphalt of the Coffee Barn parking lot.

parking lot landing

One by one we exit the basket and told to hold the balloon steady and keep our weight on the basket exterior.  We are all clear of the basket except the pilot as the balloon deflates and the basket is pulled over on its side.  The intense labor factor kicks in again as the balloon is disassembled and rolled back into the bag and the basket and gear are once again stowed on the trailer.  We are close to the airpark and brunch, the last to arrive, having had the longest ride and most exciting landing.

champagne toast

Back at the airpark with all accounted for, Roger gives his traditional champagne toast; “The winds have welcomed you with softness.  The sun has blessed you with its warm hands.  You have flown so high and so well, God has joined you in your laughter and set you gently back again into the loving arms of Mother Earth.”

Roger's toast

Roger gives his traditional toast to the guests.

Guests and crew dig into the buffet breakfast and discuss the morning’s adventure.  There was one surprise engagement and many birthdays and anniversaries celebrated during the flights.  Ascension certificates and autographed balloon posters are handed out.

It was a memorable morning.

IF YOU GO:

Vista Balloon Adventures is based at the Newberg Sportsman Airpark in Newberg, Oregon, 35 miles southwest of downtown Portland.  1-800-622-2309.  http://www.vistaballoon.com. 

We made it a weekend getaway and stayed at the very lovely Crawford Crest cabin, rented through Vacation Rentals By Owner, http://www.vrbo.com.  The cabin was 10 minutes from the launch site.  http://www.vrbo.com/398465, 503-538-9594.

Posted in Oregon | 2 Comments

Picnic Traditions

One of our picnics, taken in 1965.  From left are me, my sister Katy, my sister Rebecca, my grandmother and my sister Kris.

One of our picnics, taken in 1965. From left are me, my sister Katy, my sister Rebecca, my grandmother and my sister Kris.

Many of my fondest childhood memories include picnics.  My mother was a great picnic maker, and we had many growing up.  I don’t know how she did it, packing up 5 kids and food, and usually a chocolate cake in one of those portable cake carriers.  My mother still laughs when she sees the photo above, taken in 1965 when I was two.  In the photo are my grandmother, my three sisters, and that is me on the far left, holding my hotdog at least two feet above the fire.  I can’t believe I used to eat those things.

One of my sister’s birthday falls right in the middle of summer, and I must confess that I was always a bit envious.  Every year for her birthday we packed a great picnic and headed to the Oregon beaches.  (My birthday is in the winter and were always spent indoors with awful weather). 

The trail down to Hug Point beach, Oregon.

The trail down to Hug Point beach, Oregon.

During this last visit home, I asked my mother to take a picnic with me to the beach, recreating those wonderful childhood memories.  I requested the traditional picnic fare, which for us was;  potato salad, beans, hotdogs and chocolate cake.  It has been decades since I ate a hotdog, so we substituted brie with bread for the hotdog.

Mom at Hug Pt

My mom's traditional potato salad, baked beans, and bread with brie.

My mom’s traditional potato salad, baked beans, and bread with brie.

The must have chocolate cake, complete with strawberries and real home made whipped cream.

The must have chocolate cake, complete with strawberries and real home-made whipped cream.

For this picnic, we headed to Hug Point.  We brought Rupert and the usual accoutrements for an Oregon day at the beach;  jackets and scarves, even in June.

Rupert enjoying the beach.

Rupert enjoying the beach.

Hug Point, Oregon

Hug Point, Oregon

It turned out to be a beautiful day, but a little windy.  We arrived at 10 am, and were the second people there.  Dogs are welcome on Oregon beaches, and Rupert had fun exploring.

Laura and Rupert Hug Pt

DSC_0405Hug Pt Beach

Posted in Childhood memories, Family, Oregon | 2 Comments

Back In The Day

My mother's house, photo taken in 1967 just after the hay was baled.

My mother’s house, photo taken in 1967 just after the hay was baled.

When I go home to visit my mother, I stay in her house, which was passed down to her from her parents who purchased it in 1926.  We consider this old farm house our homestead.

The house as it looks today.

The house as it looks today.

I’m starting to pay closer attention to  details when my parents reminisce about the old days and recall personal experiences.  Digging through boxes of old black and white photos produces evidence to substantiate the stories, so my love of old photos keeps me busy for hours.

My grandparents on the front porch steps of the house.  These steps are no longer there.

My grandparents on the front porch steps of the house. These steps are no longer there.

My mother, as a child, on the same steps holding a cat.

My mother, as a child, on the same steps holding a cat.

During this last visit, my mother recalled memories from her childhood, specifically from when she was 8 or 9 and spent one week with her father, my grandfather, at his job as a fish receiver.

Fish nets at the dock, on the Columbia River.

Fish nets at the dock, on the Columbia River.

My grandfather, Oney Oja, was born in 1902.  He was a logger and a fisherman.  When my mother stayed with him as a fish receiver, he worked for a company called Kaboth Sands Seining Ground, one of many horse seining fishing companies.

A fisherman standing behind the horses (from my mother's collection)

A fisherman standing behind the horses (from my mother’s collection)

Horse seining on the Columbia River (from my mother's collection)

Horse seining on the Columbia River (from my mother’s collection)

Large nets were played out in the river, creating a giant circle.  Teams of draft horses, standing chest deep in the river, pulled in the purse seine nets full of salmon, either to the shore or to the sandbar.  My mother only recalls the horses in the water and the sandbar.  She rode with my grandfather in a boat, nicknamed a “slimey”, out to the sandbar where they used a gaff to pull the salmon onto the boat.  Back on shore at the fish receivers scow, they used another gaff and threw the salmon (commonly as much as 40 pounds) onto the dock.

This photo is from the book "Astoria 1811 - 2011 An Adventure In History"

This photo is from the book Astoria 1811 – 2011 An Adventure In History

This photo is from the book Columbia River, The Astoria Odyssey

This photo is from the book Columbia River, The Astoria Odyssey

My grandfather had a private room above the scow, so my mother was permitted to stay with him and slept on a cot in his room.  She remembers eating with the fishermen in the cook house, and being watched over by the cooks.

Pulling in the nets, (from my mother's collection)

Pulling in the nets, (from my mother’s collection)

The fish camp cooks who watched over my mother (from my mother's collection)

The fish camp cooks who watched over my mother (from my mother’s collection)

It must have been quite a sight for an 8 year old to see the huge draft horses standing in the river, sometimes with only their backs above the water line.  It was hard work for the horses and my mother remembers that they would get pneumonia.  The horses stayed in a barn out in the middle of the river when they weren’t working.  One of my mother’s friends father was the head man attending the horses and keeper of the horse barn.

Here is an excerpt from Astoria 1811 – 2011 An Adventure In History:

Most of the sites were a mile or more from either shore and wholly submerged by the flood tide, so as the water advanced, both humans and horses would retreat to their camp built high atop piling.  On these stilted little islands the horse seining crews, usually consisting of about 30 hands, and the five to seven teams of horses spent the season.

My mother was 8 or 9 when she stayed a week with her father so it would have been 1942 or 1943.

My mother, a friend, her dog Rusty and thier workhorse Nig.

My mother, a friend, her dog Rusty and their workhorse Nig.

Posted in Childhood memories, Family, Oregon | 1 Comment

Tough Decisions in the Oregon Wine Country

wine country postcard

The Willamette Valley Wineries Association (www.willamettewines.com) lists over 180 wineries in Oregon’s Willamette Valley. The first tough decision is where to start, the second, which ones to visit?

To celebrate my sister’s birthday, my mother and I escorted her to three tastings and lunch in the valley. June 1st dawned with blue skies, and promised to be a sunny and warm day. For Oregonians who had suffered through a very cool and rainy May, this was a welcome sight. From Portland, we drove west towards Forest Grove and then headed south on county road 47. Our first stop was Montinore Estate (montinore.com), on our way to our lunch destination in Carlton.

A map of the Oregon wine country

A map of the Oregon wine country

Montinore is a favorite of mine in a lovely setting. The entrance through massive gates and vineyards is a wonderful introduction to the beauty of the Oregon wine country. We were the first to arrive at the tasting room, which opened at 11 am. It is a beautiful setting and the women who poured our flights were informative and friendly.

The view from the Montinore Vineyards

The view from the Montinore Vineyards

Montinore's Flight menu

Montinore’s Flight menu

Our flight consisted of 6 tastes for $10. We started with a 2012 Pinot Gris described as having “green apple & pineapple characteristics”.  Because I am not a fan of Gewurztraminer, they graciously substituted a reserve Pinot Gris for my second taste.  We all agreed that the 2009 Parson’s Ridge Pinot Noir, “earthly overtones & a touch of spice”, was our favorite.  I purchased a 2012 Pinot Gris for consumption in the coming week, and a tasting glass with the attractive Montinore logo.  My mother purchased one of the Pinot Noirs.

My sister and me at the Montinore tasting room

My sister and me at the Montinore tasting room

Montinore Pinot Noir

Montinore Pinot Noir

My mother and sister at the Montinore tasting room

My mother and sister at the Montinore tasting room

My mother and sister outside Montinore's tasting room

My mother and sister outside Montinore’s tasting room

We left Montinore and headed south on 47, following the winding two lane road through the small towns of Gaston and Yamhill.  Nearly every mile you pass vineyard signs pointing up yet another tree lined gravel road leading to a tasting room with wonderful views and excellent wines.  Our destination for lunch was Cuvee, a French restaurant in the small town of Carlton (www.cuveedining.com).

Cuvee, French dining in the Oregon Wine Country

Cuvee, French dining in the Oregon Wine Country

Cuvee.  French dining in the Oregon wine country

Cuvee. French dining in the Oregon wine country

It was my sister’s choice, having previously patronized this restaurant for dinner.  The owner/chef, from Alsace France, was also our waiter.  We started with clams for an appetizer, accompanied by fresh bread.  They were perfectly seasoned and mouth wateringly delicious.  For lunch I had a poached salmon salad, my sister had a seafood crepe (fruits de mer), and my mother had a delightfully spiced tart, a flatbread pizza with smoked bacon, goat cheese and onion.  We enjoyed a local Savignon Blanc with lunch.  For dessert we savored the best chocolate mousse I have ever tasted.  The chef told us it was made with Grand Marnier and orange zest, topped with cream.  It was delightful, and I would highly recommend Cuvee for anyone visiting Carlton and the Willamette Valley.

cuvee table

The poached salmon salad at Cuvee

The poached salmon salad at Cuvee

The best chocolate mousse I have ever had, at Cuvee

The best chocolate mousse I have ever had, at Cuvee

After lunch we drove the short distance to Penner-Ash Wine Cellars (www.pennerash.com).  This was my choice, based upon a recent experience back home in Tampa.  I had attended a food and wine pairing at The Capital Grille and asked the Sommelier for his favorite Oregon Pinot Noir.  He answered with Penner-Ash.  I was unfamiliar with that name, so he brought a bottle for inspection.  I noted the origin, Newburg, Oregon, and vowed to visit the estate on my next trip to Oregon, just days away.  We kept that vow.

penner ash sign

penner ash vines

Penner-Ash was at the end of a long, winding, shaded drive, with a commanding view of the valley.  The tasting room was surrounded by lovely gardens of native lupines and many other beautiful flowers.  Our flight here consisted of 6 tastes for $15.  There were some pricey bottles with both blends and estate Pinot Noirs.  I chose a Penner-Ash Pinot Noir blend for $45, and a pretty wine glass with their logo.  After our tasting we relaxed in the sun on the grass and appreciated the views from this most lovely of hill tops.

In the tasting room at Penner-Ash

In the tasting room at Penner-Ash

Penner-Ash

Penner-Ash

penner ash tasting room

Penner-Ash gardens and view

Penner-Ash gardens and view

Enjoying the sun and view at Penner-Ash

Enjoying the sun and view at Penner-Ash

Penner-Ash Pinot Noir

Penner-Ash Pinot Noir

Our last stop was an impromptu choice.  We passed a nice looking tasting room on our way to Ghost Hills Cellars, and decided to pull in and give it a try.  The vineyard was Solena Estate.  It was a beautiful tasting room with the requisite friendly staff.  Our 6 tastes here were also $15.  We were slowing down, and did not purchase any bottles, but we did take note of the vintners dinners that Solena hosts.  $75 for food and wine in their lovely tasting room.  We tucked that idea away for future use.

The pourer at Solena Vineyards

The pourer at Solena Vineyards

Solena

Solena

It was nearly 4 o’clock at this point and we headed back to Portland.  The three different estates and lunch made for a nicely paced day in the valley.  With over 180 vineyards to choose from, it is difficult to narrow it down to three.  We missed one of my favorites, Erath Winery, but there are many more days in the valley to come.  For more information and an interactive map, please visit http://www.willamettewines.com.

Posted in Food and Wine, Oregon, U.S.A. | 1 Comment