A Traveler's Photo Journal

The Federal AIr Cessna Caravan that flew us from Johannesburg, South Africa to the Ulusaba airstrip in the Sabi Sand Game Reserve.

My favorite camp from our first trip to Africa was a mobile tent camp.  We were out in the wild with no electricity and no running water, and we had a blast.  This time, at Savanna Lodge, we do have all the amenities, including electricity, running water, and sporatic internet.  I was afraid I wouldn’t feel far enough removed from civilization, but we had a great first day game drive, which dispelled my fears.

We left Johannesburg on a Federal Airway Cessna Caravan, stopping in Sabi Sand first, then disembarking at Ulusaba airstrip, which turned out to be Sir Richard Branson’s airstrip for his private game reserve.  We were picked up by the Savanna Lodge and driven the 35 minutes to the camp.  Camp is not an apt description for Savanna.  We have electricity and running water.  We have a tub and a plunge pool.  The rooms are stellar.  It may not be as isolated as a mobile tent camp, but they have a lot of game here, and we were anticipating great game drives.

Our room at Savanna

Lunch was served at 3:30 pm, then we headed out for our first game drive.  We were not disappointed.  Teresa got points for spotting the most game, even more than our tracker Julius.  Patrick was a our guide/ranger.  We would have driven right past the White Rhinos, but Teresa spotted them and we headed into the thick underbrush.  This was the closest I’ve been to Rhino yet.  It was a female White Rhino with her offspring, and a juvenile male.  We got incredibly close to them, and they didn’t seem to mind us.

As I grilled Patrick about the possibility of seeing big cats with cubs (as we had heard they were about), he brushed me off, saying it wasn’t the time of year, etc.  This was his little joke.  He and tracker Julius were speaking Tsonga together, and on the radio were coordinating with other Savanna guides on the wearabouts of a family of lions.  Just as dusk was settling in, we pulled up to a family of two lionesses with four cubs.  They were adorable beyond description.

We watched them at play with each other, and with their mother’s.  One cub was smaller than the rest, estimated to be only 3 months old.  As night set in, we watched past photo op time, and put the cameras down to enjoy the show.  We were very happy to have had the opportunity.  Patrick and Julius had had one over on us.  It was their surprise.

After the lion encounter we pulled into a scenic area for sundowners, with Teresa having the best quote of the day “Now that was the real sundowner!”  As we sipped our Amarulas we remarked on the beauty of the area, and our guides told us that it was where Sir Richard Branson’s guests would on occasion have a dinner in the bush.  That guy knows how to live.  We seemed to be following in his footsteps all day.

Back at the lodge, we entered our room to find a bathtub full of hot water and bubbles, complete with two glasses of sherry.  A quick one hour respit and off to dinner.  The dinner here was served at one long table, visiting between guests encouraged.

It was a great first game drive for my friends Augie and Teresa.  Good vibes for things to come.

The planning, preparation, and the actual vacation are the fun part, getting there is not.  This is the third time I have traveled from Washington DC to Johannesburg, South Africa on South African Airways, and it doesn’t get any easier.  This time we all met in DC the night before our flight out on SAA.  That turned out to be a god send, as with less than one week until departure, we got word that Mozambique was turning away at the border some foreigners without visas.  Everything I had read indicated that we could purchase a single entry visa at the border, but our wonderful Hartley’s Safaris planner Karen (www.Hartleys-safaris.co.uk) heard rumors of denied entries, so we all thought it prudent to do our best to get them in advance.  Emails to two embassies did not calm our fears and the decision was made to use the morning in DC before our departure to get the Mozambique visas.  And we needed exactly all the time we had.

The Mozambique embassy is near Dupont Circle, so that morning we took the hotel shuttle bus to the park and ride bus station, a 30 minute bus ride to the metro station, and another 30 to 40 minutes on the metro to Dupont Circle.  Dressed in our warm weather safari gear we braved the 32 degree windy weather and walked the few blocks to the embassy.  At least it was sunny.  Of course money orders were required (no cash accepted), which was another trek to CVS, ears turning red and eyes watering with the cold.  The incredibly unhelpful Mozambique embassy worker took our passports, forms, photos, itinerary and money order and told us to return at 12:45.  A conveniently located Starbucks had us killing the time drinking coffee and discussing Downton Abbey and other favorite BBC programs.  We returned to the embassy at the appointed hour and  finally had our visas, along with the peace of mind that we would not be turned away at the border.  We could have chanced it and made the attempt, but with visas in hand, I knew we would relax and enjoy the rest of the trip without the worry.

A Flight of Chamagne at Vino Volo at the IAD airport

Back at the airport, with three hours before departure, champagne “flights” were ordered, toasts made, and final preps completed.  Phone calls to family, “Good bye, we love you, we’ll try to email, but if you don’t hear from us, we’re ok.”

Then started the long slog.  The first leg from DC to Dakar, Senegal was shorter than I had endured before, only 7 hours with a nice tail wind.  After a fuel stop in Dakar, we were off again for another 8:15.  As unpleasant as it is to spend that much time in one seat on an airplane, I do like SAA.  They are always pleasant, very free with the mini Amarula bottles and you have your own personal entertainment screen at your seat.

Finally we landed in JNB.  Through customs pretty quickly, waiting for bags to arrive – did they make it?  Yes!– and a walk across the street to the hotel.

The Intercontinental Hotel at the JNB airport.

We had arrived!  The JNB Intercontinental Hotel is quite nice, and just about 100 paces from the terminal.  It felt like heaven to be off the plane.

The traveling portion is a necessary evil, and I am always happy to have it behind me.  Now the fun begins!  We had just enough energy for a hot shower and light dinner at Quills, and then off to bed.

The Quills restaurant at the Intercontinental

Dinner at Quills, and still awake after the long flight

Not looking too shabby after over 30 hours of travel.