The Winter Solstice Is Here Again

Eva Stalsjo christmas card

Once again we have reached the shortest day of the year.  And once again, we perform our rituals to ward off the darkness and hope for the return of the sun.  We no longer doubt the return of the sun, but we still long for it.

I have found no better description of the traditions of the Winter Solstice than the following passage from The Book Of Christmas, by Brendan Lehane, from 1986.

So when you decorate your tree, give presents, hang greenery and feast this season, know that it is rooted deep in the past.

The word “solstice” means only “sun stand still.”  The winter solstice is the point in the yearly course of the earth around the sun when, because of the angle of the earth’s axis, the Northern Hemisphere is tilted farthest away from the sun’s face.   The path that the sun takes across the sky as it travels from horizon to horizon is low.  What weak rays reach the earth during that season fall obliquely, offering little light and little warmth.  The day of the winter solstice is the shortest of the entire year, and the night the cruelest and the longest.

Most people knew the sun as a god, the provider of light and warmth and life.  In late December, the god offered only a brief daily showing, the forced smile of an invalid ancient on his deathbed.  Yet in the days that followed, the god fought back against the encroaching darkness, slowly winning through to the midsummer months, when the sun’s golden brightness blazed high in the heavens.

People did not take the sun’s victory for granted.  Men and women then felt themselves and their actions intrinsic to the universe:  They had a role to play.  They believed that sun and light were truly endangered at the solstice.  The earth trembled under the footsteps of the dead, and unless the living offered prayers and performed ceremonies, death would triumph.  There would be no return of summer, no blossoming again of fruits and flowers, no rippling of grains in the fields, no gamboling of infant animals in the pastures.

Far from Bethlehem, far from the ordered rule of the Roman Empire, in the night-black, icy north – the land of Celt, Geat, Lapp, Finn, Dane and Hun – rituals to ensure the rebirth of the sun were faithfully enacted in massive timbered halls and around fires blazing amid the endless tracts of snow.  People masked with horses’ head, with stags’ antlers, with deerskins, with hides of goats, danced in the firelight.  They adorned their houses and themselves with holly and ivy and mistletoe and evergreen – all of the plants that withstood the death of winter and so were charged with enchanting power.  They held heroic carousals.  They sacrificed to the dead and to the gods of darkness:  For the sake of the sun and the earth’s fertility, animals died, and sometimes men and women.

The threat was not merely the loss of life-giving light, although that was bad enough. The dark, these people were certain, was crowded with the creatures of evil.  Ghosts haunted the gloom, werewolves prowled, witches, demons, goblins and imps lurked in the nocturn, creating mischief; packs of supernatural dogs massed on the moorlands; malevolent spirits hovered near houses, seeking entrance.  So men and women devised ways of cheating them.  They changed protective spells, posted magic symbols on doors and clothes.  And they avoided the dark by making fires.

Fire was at the center of all the winter festivals.  It was the brother of the sun, calling out to the heavens.  Great bonfires blazed on the hills of Ireland and Scotland, on the mountains of France and Germany and in the halls of the Norse kings.  Throughout the countries lapped by the Mediterranean and ruled by Rome, fire burned in the form of candles as the Romans held their winter feast.  Originally this feast was called Brumalia; later it became known as the Saturnalia.  The festivities were dedicated to the Titan Saturn, lord of the harvest, long trapped by his son Jupiter beneath the earth;  perhaps because the imprisoned Titans were deemed to view the world upside down, the Saturnalia was a feast of reversals;  Masters served slaves and slaves commanded masters.   This was a time of banqueting, of carrying green boughs that signified the strength of life, of bestowing presents.  Men and women faced the darkness with a kind of madcap glee, fending it off with their high spirits.

The dates and natures of winter ceremonies and celebrations varied from race to race.  Among some peoples, early November was the time for the most concentrated rituals.  This was so with the Celts, whose winter began at Samain, November 1.  Norsemen originally celebrated Yule – their winter rite – in November, when darkness began to enfold their land.  Other festivals were spread throughout the following two months.  The Roman Saturnalia occupied the week that ended on the 24th of December.  The followers of the Persian god Mithra – the cave-born god of light who drove away the darkness – deemed that his birthday was December 25.  And many other days in December were the occasions for winter ceremonies.  Yet all of them were intimately concerned with the great natural crisis that reached its acme on the day of the sun’s shortest and feeblest appearance.

All of these rites were gathered at last under the mantle of the Christian celebration , and while the origins were forgotten, traces of the old ceremonies remained.  These traces were to be found in the devotion to the flames of candles and to the blazing of Yule logs, in mimes and mumming and curious rituals and games that echoed ancient and forgotten sacrifices, in feasting and choice of foods to feast upon, in garlands of holly and ivy and evergreen, in the raising of Christmas trees, in the giving of presents, in the very words of the songs that were sung.  The child who was the Son of God and called the sun of righteousness promised delivery from darkness and the hope of everlasting life.  The placing of his nativity at the heart of winter seemed natural; it made the new belief a link with the old, and helped keep humankind wedded to the seasons.  The attributes of Christmas are those of light and of dark:  It is the time for joy and worship, celebration and good will.  But these are still spiced with a pleasurable tingle of fear, the relic of an ancient apprehension that flowered on the solstice night, when death and darkness stalked the world.

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tomte card

Posted in Seasons & Holidays | 1 Comment

Glorious October

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It is a bit rare to have a full week of glorious weather in Oregon in October, but it does happen every so often.  It happened during the third week of October this year, and I was lucky enough to be there to enjoy it.

Rows of grape vines with a view of the Willamette Valley, somewhere in the hills above Dundee, Oregon:

Willamette Valley vines

A friend and I took full advantage of the weather and visited the beach as well as quite a few vineyards and tasting rooms.  It was fun to discover a few “new to us” vineyards.

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Here are some suggestions for things to do on a glorious October day in Oregon.

We were incredibly lucky and got a day at the beach in October with calm winds and 77 degrees F.  Very unusual.  One of the shop keepers in Cannon Beach confessed to opening her store a few hours late, due to a walk on the beach she just could not pass up.

The Oregon Coast:  One of my favorite beaches is Hug Point.

Hug Point

We were obviously under equipped for this outing, as we did not have a dog with us.  A dog is nearly a requirement for a day on the Oregon coast and almost all other beach goers had a dog, or two.  One of the things I love about Oregon is that dogs are allowed on all beaches.  We discussed the possibilities of a “rent a dog” business for those unfortunate enough to be dog-less at the beach.

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Cannon Beach’s Haystack Rock, taken from a viewpoint between Hug Point and Cannon Beach:

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We enjoyed lunch on the patio of the Driftwood restaurant in downtown Cannon Beach.  They have very good clam chowder.

The outdoor patio of the Driftwood Restaurant, Cannon Beach:

Driftwood restaurant

A visit to the beach always requires a stop at two of my favorite seafood stores;  the Bell Buoy in Seaside for dungeness crab and smoked tuna, and Josephson’s Smoked Fish in Astoria for smoked salmon and halibut.

http://www.bellbuoyofseaside.com/

http://www.josephsons.com/

The Willamette Valley has seven AVAs (American Viticultural Area):  Chehalem Mountains, Dundee Hills, Eola-Amity Hills, McMinnville, Ribbon Ridge, Willamette Valley and Yamhill-Carlton.  I think we hit almost all of them, crisscrossing some several times.

Yamhill Carlton AVA

To locals, it feels as if a new vineyard and tasting room pops up every week.  Every time I visit, I find one I’ve not seen before.  During this trip, we visited several I’d not tried before.

Here are a few of the Vineyards and tasting rooms we visited.

David Hill Vineyards and Winery:  My first visit to this vineyard was last year at Thanksgiving.  I’ve been back multiple times since then, and they never disappoint.  The tasting room is in the old farm house built in 1883.  The people have always been very pleasant and casual, and the views are great.  You can relax as long as you like on the Adirondack chairs out back.  They make a very nice rosè.

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T at David HIll

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David Hill rose

Elizabeth Chambers Cellar:  This tasting room is in McMinnville.  We stopped in just after opening at 11 am and were the only ones there.  The large outdoor patio and garden are dog friendly.  I joined the wine club after tasting the 2012 Termperance Hill Vineyard Pinot Noir.  The club discount is 15% and $10 shipping.

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E Chambers pinot

glasses

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Stoller Vineyards:

We stayed close to Stoller, only minutes away.  It is just off 99W between Lafayette and Dundee.   They have a very nice view of their vines with Adirondack chairs and a big dog friendly open area.  We tried the cheese plate, very good.

Stoller

morning vines

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Stoller outdoor tasting area

Stoller cheese plate

Fairsing Vineyard:   Fairsing I think has one of the best tasting rooms and views of all.  We stumbled across it during our last visit, while just driving around.  It is in the Yamhill-Carlton AVA, at the end of a long gravel road on the top of a hill between Yamhill and Gaston.  I was hoping to pick up a few bottles of their tasty rosè but it had sold out.  Their outdoor area is dog friendly.

Fairsing

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Fairsing vines

Colene Clemens Vineyards:  This vineyard was totally new to us and we found it by driving around the winding country roads.  It is just 4 miles from Fairsing Vineyards but in a different AVA, Chehalem Mountain.  It has a stunningly picturesque old barn at the bottom of the hill near the entrance.  The tasting room is at the top of the hill, with a view and a cellar dog.  We became wine club members here after tasting the 94 point 2015 Victoria Pinot noir and the 2014 Max Pinot noir.  Members get a 20% discount on club shipments, free shipping and free tastings for up to six people during visits.

Colene Clemens barn

Collene Clemens sign

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L at Colene Clemens

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Arterberry Maresh:  During our last visit, we had a very pleasant tasting with Jim the winemaker at the red barn.  We ordered a case of wine, but since it was July, they were holding onto it until the Fall shipping date.  We decided to stop in and pick up the case and carry it back with us.  Because it was October and they were very busy with post harvest work, we could not do a tasting (the tasting room is closed through March).  But we did pick up our wine, and they gave us a complimentary bottle to boot.  Very nice.

Maresh barn

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Domaine Serene:  Domaine Serene has a truly awesome view and a very grand tasting room.  This time we did The Paradigm Experience, which includes a tour, and once again, we were not disappointed.  The wine is expensive, but very good.  Will, our sommelier (for both visits) was very knowledgeable and just down right pleasant.  He patiently answered all of my questions, which felt like hundreds.  I am not a chardonnay drinker, but the 2015 Maison Evenstad Santenay Premier Cru ‘Beaurepaire’ left me nearly speechless (nearly).  It’s a bit steep at $90 per bottle, but as Will said, he had tasted much more expensive Chardonnay that was not as good.  I cannot make the same claim, as I rarely drink chardonnay.  I also very much enjoyed the 2015 Domaine Serene Aspect Pinot Noir.  After the Paradigm Experience, we ordered a cheese plate and two glasses of the Aspect, and enjoyed the sun and the view from the patio.

Domaine Serene

menu

Will

Santenay

first course

Aspect

second course

 

Domaine Serene patio

Domaine Serene cheese plate

A walk in the woods:   Trappist Abbey, also in the Willamette Valley, allows visitors to walk their trails, dogs welcome.   We heard about this from one of the tasting room attendants, so we stopped in.  We checked in with a woman at the front desk and she gave us a map and we walked up the hill behind the Abbey.  We were passed by a man with two very athletic English Setters eager to get to the top.

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Posted in Food and Wine, Oregon | 4 Comments

Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe (Mosi-oa-Tunya, The Smoke That Thunders)

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I had read that August was a good month to visit Victoria Falls.  It is the time of year when the water volume is not too much, and not too little.   Before seeing it for myself, I had wondered how too much water could be a problem.  When you experience the spray/mist, then you understand.  There are times when you can’t see the waterfall for the water (spray and mist).

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We had two nights in the town of the same name, and one full day.  If you want pictures of the falls with rainbows, the afternoon is the time to visit.  Having been in the bush for days, (no shopping), we spent the morning walking between the small shops in town and poking around for souvenirs.  The town was a short walk from our guest house.

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I purchased an incredibly detailed painting of an African Wild Dog from a young Zimbabwean man named Isaac.  My wild dog obsession continues.

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Lunch at the Lookout Cafe was recommended, so we tried it.  It has a great view.  We could see the Victoria Falls Bridge connecting Zimbabwe to Zambia from our table.  We also watched people enjoying a zip line experience.

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From the entrance of the falls, there is a path along the ridge opposite the falls.  It is very much a rain forest, and you will get wet.  There are 16 view points from the Zimbabwe park side.

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Viewpoint 1 is of the Devil’s Cataract.

Viewpoint 1:

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Viewpoint 2 has steps leading down to viewing area, and is a great spot for afternoon rainbows.  We were not disappointed.

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Viewpoint 2:

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Viewpoints 3 – 6 are also of the Devil’s Cataract, where the main volume of water is concentrated.  There is a lot of spray in this area.

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Viewpoints 7 and 8 are The Main Falls.

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Viewpoints 9 through 12 are of the Main Falls and Livingstone Island.  They say Livingstone lowered a bullet attached to a string into the gorge to measure the height from this island.

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Viewpoints 13 and 14 are of Horseshoe Falls and Rainbow Falls.

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The path between viewpoints 13 and 15:

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Viewpoint 15 is called Danger Point.  You can see the boiling pot below and the Eastern Cataract on the Zambian side.  This part is dry during the dry season.

Viewpoint 15:

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We got thoroughly soaked between viewpoints 13 and 15, then walked out to viewpoint 16 to see the Victoria Falls Bridge.

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We followed the rain forest trail back towards the entrance and stopped for a cappuccino at the Rain Forest Cafe.  It was the best coffee we had had in a long time as many of the bush camps only served Nescafe.

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Just outside the gate to the park is another souvenir area, for all your last minute shopping needs!

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This next photo is not mine, but from the Victoria Falls website.  We did not do the helicopter photo flight, which must be popular as we heard them constantly from sunrise to sunset.

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Posted in Zimbabwe | 4 Comments

Final Game Drive and a Border Crossing Into Zimbabwe

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Once again at 0600 we were at the Sedudu Gate to the Chobe National Park, but this time we had a pass for a half day drive, and what a difference it made.  We took a leisurely drive along the river, no rushing, no time constraints.  Mathews was our guide and he was good at it.  We saw a lot of birds, and stopped for a coffee break on Puku Flats, just across the river from Namibia.

It would be very easy to become a “Bird Nerd”, there are so many beautiful varieties of birds here.  We saw many African fish-eagles, the southern carmine bee-eater, and of course the lilac-breasted roller, who seem to pose on every thorn bush.  There are eleven pages of bird pictures and names in my Tourist Map/guide book for Chobe National Park.  I bought this guide at the Sevuti Gate and am glad to have it.

African Fish-Eagle:

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Southern Carmine Bee-eater:

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Saddle-billed Stork:

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Also along the river we saw fishermen in small boats (not something I would do considering the size of the crocodiles we saw) and across the river in Namibia we saw red leschwe and waterbuck.

Continuing our drive, we headed away from the river.  There are three main “roads” in the park here:  the road along the river, and two further inland.  Inside the park you must stay on the tracks.

We found more elephants, not surprising, and baboons.

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Elephant Closeup:

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Lilac-breasted Roller: (my favorite picture of my favorite Botswana bird).

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Driving still further, we passed a giraffe family and more lilac-breasted rollers.  They pose on branches quite close to the road.  They are stunning.

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Mathews stopped at the Serondela picnic site along the river for our lunch.  At first the little vervet monkeys were cute to watch.  But oh my goodness they are smart.

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They know the guides by what they are wearing, and they know an easy mark.  My sister and I were at the picnic table, with boxed lunches open.  The monkeys were at least 6 to 10 feet away.  Mathews turned his back to speak with another guide and took only one step away, and that little vervet monkey saw his opportunity.  Before I knew what was happening, he was on the table and had grabbed two bunches of grapes from my open boxed lunch.  It happened so fast I hardly even saw it.  My sister was laughing and calling me an easy mark.   Mathews turned and yelled at the monkey and he ran up a tree.

The Little Grape Thief before it got my lunch:

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Each time Mathews turned his back, the monkeys would move closer.  All it took to back them off was Mathews turning around, and then they would run up the tree and turn and scream at him.  They definitely knew who was a guide and who was a tourist.

Mathews got a radio call saying someone had spotted lions, so we quickly packed up and headed out.  As Mathews packed our cooler into the back of the vehicle, the little grape thief jumped into the vehicle, eyeing the last cluster grapes in my hand.

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We found the lions, we think the same three lionesses we had seen at a distance the day before.  They were being closely watched by a tower of giraffes.

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We watched the giraffe watching the lions, then continued on our drive.  We saw zebra, and the very beautiful kudu, both male and female.  The kudu males have some of the most beautiful horns, and the females look like super models.

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Male Kudu:

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Super Model Female Kudu:

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We again set out at a leisurely pace.  The road was quite deep sand and we came upon a stuck vehicle.  Being a national park, you can self drive.  This self drive Toyota was in trouble.  Mathews was a bit wary of getting us stuck as well, so we told the driver we would send help from the gate on our way out.

(The white Toyota facing us was the one that was stuck in the sand.)

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We continued along the sandy track in the general direction of the Sedudu Gate.  I was sitting on the right side, always scanning the brush for wildlife.  My sister was sitting on the left side, also scanning.

Suddenly my sister shouted “Leopard, leopard.”  Sure enough, she got points for the best spot of the day.  I’m not sure how she picked it out from the surrounding brush, and neither Mathews or I did, but she saw the cat walking, headed towards the river.  You can see the cat in this next photo, if you look closely enough.  Now imagine spotting the well camouflaged cat while moving.  They blend in very well with the surrounding flora.

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Mathews said we’d follow our track until the next road where we could turn down to follow the river road.  We traveled perhaps another mile, then back tracked along the river road hoping to find the cat again.

Good luck, we spotted her, still moving in the same direction.  We were the only vehicle, and kept a respectable distance, but followed her as she made her way through the brush.  We think she was scouting a shady spot to spend the afternoon.  We slowly paralleled her track until she went into the shade under a tree.  It was a very nice sighting, quiet, and we were the only vehicle.  We left her in peace in the shade of the large tree.

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leopard 1

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Very happy with my sister’s unbelievably good spotting (even Mathews was impressed) we headed back to the gate.  We passed elephants heading to the water.

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We checked out at the gate and headed back to the lodge.

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I love this road sign:

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Once back at the lodge, we had a short wait, and then our driver came for the transfer to Zimbabwe.  The border was a short ten minute drive, where we were handed off to another driver on the Zimbabwe side.  You first clear out of Botswana, and then into Zimbabwe with separate offices a short distance apart.  Our Zimbabwe driver waited for us while we spent the 1 1/2 hours in line to purchase our Visa and entrance into Zimbabwe.

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The drive from the border to Victoria Falls was about one hour.  The roads were good, and we saw elephants off the side of the road.

The Road In Zimbabwe:

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We had two nights stay at Bayete Guest Lodge, a very nice place.  It was a little oasis.

http://www.bayeteguestlodge.com/

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They very kindly made us a late lunch/early dinner and we settled into a cool room with a hot shower.

Posted in Botswana, Zimbabwe | 2 Comments

A Different Game Drive Experience

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We had planned a three hour game drive starting at 0530 for our one full day in Kasane.  Starting from the River View Lodge, it is about a 15 or 20 minute drive to the Sedudu Gate of the Chobe National Park, all on paved roads.  The gate opens at 06:00 in August and closes at 18:30.  You can purchase a 3 hour pass, a 6 hour pass, or a full day pass, but these were facts that we were initially unaware of, and would make a big difference in our experience.

Having come from the more remote areas, we were accustomed to climbing into our vehicle and driving past the mostly unoccupied gates and into the park, and quite often be the lone vehicle in the area.

This experience was totally different.  We had been told we were to go with Mathews, our guide from the night before.  At 05:30 we were told that Mathews was doing a half day drive and we would go with a different driver for the three hour drive.  We did not know that we had the option for a longer game drive, and at 05:30 not being as quick of mind as we should have been, we went along with the program.

Arriving at the gate at opening time, it reminded me of a Best Buy store the Friday after Thanksgiving, when the doors open and the flood of shoppers is unleashed.  It was the same with the game drive vehicles.  We were in a congo line of vehicles, all jostling for position.  To my sister and I, it was a shock.

But the Sedudu Gate to the park is the closest gate to a populated area, and if you are in Botswana with limited time, this is the type of game drive you would do.

As we sped along the sand track, breathing in the exhaust of the vehicle in front, I was wondering what the rush was all about.  After a while I just couldn’t take it anymore and asked the driver what was going on and why the rush.

We were told we had just three hours to get into the park, possibly see “big cats” (because that is what everyone wants to see) and get out.   The drivers all rush around trying to spot the cats as they settle into their shade areas for the heat of the day.  It was a thoroughly unimpressive experience.

When a leopard was spotted, it was like a three ring circus.  My sister counted 19 vehicles trying to get in a position to photograph the poor thing.  It was chaotic.  I asked our driver to back off so I could photograph the melee.

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I couldn’t fault the driver.  He did not know that we had come from the remote areas and were used to a more leisurely pace and much less competition.  He was just trying to please us by finding the Big Cat.

We did see the leopard, who seemed less than happy with the action all around, but stayed in the shade of the trees.

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We also saw young hippos playing, giraffe, impala, three lions from a distance, and one of my favorite little birds, the guinea fowl, affectionately known as the Chobe Chicken.

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We exited the park after three hours, our permit length of time.

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The Sedudu Gate to the Chobe National Park:

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Once back at the River View Lodge, we spoke with the management and arranged for a half day private drive the next day.  We would have to change our Zimbabwe transfer time, but it would be our last game drive of the trip and I was determined to leave with a good experience.

The lesson learned here was that the three hour, fast paced, in and out game drive was not something I would recommend or ever do again.  It was nothing like the remote area drives and was anything but peaceful.

My sister took another river cruise while I relaxed by our pool and sampled some new to me South African wine.

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It was a nice sunset from the patio of the lodge.

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Posted in Botswana | Leave a comment

Savuti to Chobe River Front

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We started our day with an early morning game drive, our last for the Savuti area.  We saw impala, kudu, elephants, tsessebe, steenbok, ostrich, mongoose, black backed jackals and a host of birds.  It was a pleasant and relaxing drive and a nice way to end our stay in Savuti.

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After the drive, Bonnie took us out to the airport to meet our Mack Air flight to Kasane.  Typical game drive attire is hat, sunglasses, scarf and long sleeves.  Don’t wear white for game drives, but this was on our way to the airport so it was ok.

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airport sign 2

In Kasane we stayed at the River Front Lodge on the Chobe River.  From this area you can stand in Botswana and see both Namibia and Zambia.  Kasane is a small town close to the Sedudu Gate to the Chobe National Park.

The Chobe National Park is a large area with diverse wildlife and distinct ecosystems.  We just came from Savuti, known for its game and large number of lions.  In Kasane, we are still in the national park, but this area is known as the Chobe River Front and is home to a huge number of elephants who congregate along the river.

But we were no longer “camping.”  No more tents and we had electricity 24 hours a day.

Our launch site:

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Our first outing was an evening river cruise along the Chobe River.  The river is the border between Botswana and Namibia.  The elephants are protected on the Botswana side, but are subject to harassment and shooting on the Namibia side.  They cross the river at times, and raid the crops of farmers.  We saw elephants swimming the river between the Sedudu Island (very small and still Botswana) and the shore of the river inside the park.

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We saw many crocodiles, a water monitor, lots of water buffalo and several hippos.

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Our guide Mathews told us that the bachelor buffalo are called Daka Boys, meaning Mud Boys.

Daka Boys:

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But the truly amazing site was when we came to the river front area where the elephants gather.  It was something to see, over one hundred elephants all together along the river front.  My sister counted them and stopped when she reached 100.  We saw a family with a little one that Mathews estimated to be just a few days old.

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Tiny Baby Elephant:

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We cruised back to the dock as the sun set.

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Posted in Botswana | 4 Comments

Camp Savuti Day 6: Oodles of elephants, up close and personal with a lion, and curious hyena pups

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Our second full day of game drives at Camp Savuti started with a search of the immediate area for the lions that had been making noise the entire night.   They sounded as if they were right in the camp.  After our usual breakfast at 0630 we crossed the dry gulch and headed into the scrub near camp called Sand Ridge.  But we found nothing of the noisy lions.  Bonnie would stop and speak with the other guide of each vehicle we passed.  Had anyone seen the lions?  Always no.

After cruising the area, we headed out toward the Savuti Marsh to see if we could see any cheetah.  The wide open marsh area is cheetah territory.   We didn’t see cheetahs, but we did see a long list of other animals:  wildebeest, eland, tsessebe, zebra, impala, and ostrich, and I’m probably forgetting a few others.

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Headed towards the big baobab tree for our coffee break, sharp-eyed guide Bonnie stopped and asked to borrow my binoculars.  Sure enough, he had spotted a pride of lions.  I don’t know what it is he saw.  When the mid morning sun starts to heat up, the lions like to lie flat in the shade and with their color being the same as the surrounding sand, it is very difficult to see them.

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Bonnie drove the vehicle over to the pride and we watched as they relaxed in the shade and groomed each other and looked very much like large house cats.  We were the only one in the area, so we could watch them in silence.

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Leaving the lions in peace, and passing four elephants on our way, we took our coffee break under a baobab tree.

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Legend has it that they were thrown down from heaven by God and stuck in the ground like a spear, upside down with the roots pointing up.  Red and yellow billed hornbills were everywhere, and when they saw our cookies, they came hopping around looking for crumbs.

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The size of the baobob is demonstrated here with our game drive companions.

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After coffee break we piled back in the Land Cruiser and slowly made our way back in the direction of camp, always scanning.  Thoroughly satisfied by our morning drive, we were back in camp for our 11 am brunch.

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For the afternoon drive, my sister and I had the vehicle all to ourselves.  Our first stop was a water hole where elephants and buffalo go to wallow in the mud.  At first we saw a lone elephant and several buffalo.  The elephant was spraying mud all over himself and the buffalo looked totally caked in mud.  Bonnie suggested we head towards the main section of the water hole and wait to see if the breeding herd of elephants would come down.

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And yes they did.  A large herd came to the water hole, right on schedule, and we watched as they delighted in an afternoon bath.  The herd had several babies with them and one seemed overjoyed with his afternoon water play time, using his tiny trunk to splash in the water and rolling in the shallow water, then the dust.  It was quite a show and we watched until the elephants had finished and they slowly walking away.  All the elephants we watched seemed to never be in a hurry, and it is relaxing to watch their deliberate and dignified movements.

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We knew the lions we searched for in the morning near camp were probably still in the area.  They must have found a shady spot to spend the hot part of the day, and would still be there.  Other camp vehicles also were searching, and finally someone spotted the three big male lions, as expected, sleeping in the shade, waiting for cooler temperatures and their night time activities to start.

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A half circle of about 6 vehicles, each filled with wide eyed and wonder struck tourists, watched the lions from a respectable distance.

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The light was beautiful, casting a golden hue on the big cats.  As we watched, one of the lions slowly got up, stretched, and made his way directly towards our vehicle.

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I’m was clicking photos as he approached, until he got too close.  The following pictures show just how close he got.  That is the seat of the Land Cruiser in the picture.  He got so close I couldn’t focus fast enough.  He passed directly behind our Land Cruiser and casually walked off.  It was my closest encounter with a lion.

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Thoroughly satisfied with our lion encounter we stopped to watch a large flock of pelicans settle into the trees for the night.  They circled the area in one large mass, then one by one made their landing approaches into the tops of trees.  It was the golden hour, that last hour of light before sunset, and a beautiful time of the evening.

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Our last great encounter for the day was at the hyena den.  When we first arrived, there was one other vehicle parked and two hyena pups near the opening of the den.  The other vehicle left and we were left alone.  Bonnie asked if we’d prefer to go have sundowners or stay and watch the hyenas.  Since it was just the two of us, we opted to stay at the den.  It was peaceful, and we sat quietly and patiently.  Soon a third pup cautiously came out of the den.  As we continued our silent watch, eight of the ten pups came out of the den.  We watched as they played with each other.

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Three of them got curious and made their way over to us.  They got so close as to be nearly under us, so Bonnie turned the engine over once to scare them back.  It was nice to sit quietly and watch them.

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The spell was broken when another vehicle came to watch and the occupants were chatting.  The puppies quickly disappeared back into the den.

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A few basic rules of game drives;  be quiet when you see animals, don’t make any sudden moves, don’t wear white, and bring binoculars.

In the growing darkness we turned back towards camp, passing a lone elephant feeding in the pink glow of sunset.  We would enjoy our sundowners back in camp, but it was worth it to experience the joy of seeing the puppies playing and getting a truly up close hyena encounter.

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Savuti Camp, Day 5: Chobe National Park

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Despite the dry and scrubby look, there is plenty of life in Chobe.

I was here in this same area seven years ago, and it looked quite different.  I remember it to be much greener and there were small lakes and water in the river bed.  I asked our camp manager Jess about that.  She said the water dried up in 2015 and there had been no water in the river bed since then.  To keep the animals in the area, water holes had been dug with pumps powered by solar.  We saw a lot of solar power usage in all the camps.

We saw plenty of wildlife on our first full day of game drives in Sevuti.

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At first light we passed a hyena den.  Two of the ten pups were out of the den and we watched them for a little bit.  We also saw impala and a few water buffalo in the morning.

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Early in the drive we followed two lionesses as they climbed a rocky outcrop and took up a Lion King perch to watch the surrounding area.  These two lionesses were not from any of the local prides.

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What we didn’t see, and what I remember from before, were trees filled with baboons and vervet monkeys.  I asked Bonnie about the absence of the monkeys, and he said they left when the water dried up.  All but one hippo left as well.  We felt sad for the one hippo who stayed behind.  He lives all alone in a very small pond, and peeked at us with just his eyeballs out of the water when we stopped to visit him at his pond.

We ended the morning drive with a pride of lions, doing what they do most of the hours of the day, sleeping.  One lioness had a wound on her right side, and one cub had a blind eye.  Bonnie explained how the cub had been stung by bees in a cave when quite young.  The other cub had died from the bee stings.

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Cat’s Claw:

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Back in camp we sat in the main area for brunch.  The days start quite cool, but quickly heat up.  The temperatures swing from the mid 40s F to nearly 90 F.  The tent was too hot for a midday nap, but the outdoor shower was pleasant.

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A snack at 3 pm gets you ready for a 3:30 afternoon drive.

On this drive we were accompanied by a couple from Belgium.  It was quite a pleasant drive as we followed the dry river bed, passing a steenbok, one of my favorite birds, the lilac breasted roller, and a large make kudu.

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On the plains we saw wildebeest, the national bird the kori bustard and a black backed jackal.

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We got lucky with two less than common giraffe sightings.  One giraffe was drinking, but as soon as he saw us, he righted himself from his ungainly drinking position.  As we continued we saw many more giraffe and two bulls fighting.  The fighting is called “necking”, and can last either a short five minutes, or for much longer.  We watched these two males go at it for a while, then drove off as their dispute continued.

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There is a water hole frequented most evenings by elephants, and it was near this hole that we had our sundowners.  We encountered a few bull elephants in the grassy plains on the way to the water hole, and then watched the family herd as they took their turn.

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It was a fast paced drive back to the main gate of the park to be exiting by 6:30 PM, but we made it.  The sand is quite deep on many of the driving tracks and four wheel drive is a must.

The dinners at Sevuti Camp are announced with an acappella song sung by Jess and the waiters.  The food was very good, all vegetables were fresh and tasty.

Every night we slept in Kadizora Camp we heard hippos.  All night at Sevuti night, every night, we heard lions.  At times they sounded so close as to be in camp.

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Day Four, Camp Kadizora to Camp Sevuti: From the Delta to the Desert

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Today was the day we had to transfer from Camp Kadizora to Camp Sevuti, another small plane ride.  In the morning we did a two hour delta river cruise, a birder’s paradise.  It was a beautiful time of day, early, and it was quiet.   It was teeming with life.  It was just the two of us and our guide, and it was quite pleasant.

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We saw hundreds of birds, including stork, pelicans, king fishers, egrets, African fish eagles and others I can’t remember.  The water was still and we heard nothing but the birds at first.

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We cruised up the river to the hippo area.  On the way we encountered more crocodiles than you can imagine, and two elephants feeding in the shallows.  The elephants weren’t happy with our presence and turned their backs on us.

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The hippo pond had at least thirty hippos, all of who popped up to watch us approach.  We kept our distance, and listened to their bellows and calls, and watched the jets of water they would create.

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It was a nice way to end our stay at Kadizora.

The last crocodile we saw was the old man of the river.  He is 5 meters long.

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OC drove us out to the airstrip, stopping at a Baobob tree as requested.  I have a thing for these trees and love to see and touch them.  There is one here in Botswana that is said to be over 5,000 years old.

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Our next camp, Camp Sevute, was 85 nm east of Kadizora.  I sat in the front of the plane with the pilot and watched the nautical miles slowly count down.  We were only traveling at 115 knots, at an altitude of 5,500 feet MSL, approximately 2,500 feet above the ground.

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The landscape changed dramatically as we headed east.  We left the green and wet delta for a very dry landscape.  It seemed as we approached Sevute that nothing could live here.  I would be wrong about that.

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We were met by a driver from another camp, who gave us a ride to Camp Sevute.  Our camp was a very short distance from the gate to the Chobe National Park.  Our tent was much smaller here and no all night electricity.  They had a generator for power that shut off at 8 pm.  All lights after 8 pm were solar.  You could only charge your camera/laptop batteries at one common station in the main tent from 8 am to 3 pm, which turned out to be problematic for us.  The tent was too hot to be in during the afternoon, but we were given hot water bottles for the beds at night.  That was the extreme temperature swing.  It was quite cold in the mornings on the game drives, but by 10 am we were shedding layers.

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The routine at Camp Sevute was a wake up at 0600, breakfast at 0630 and start the game drives at 0700.   We were usually back in camp around 11 am for brunch.  We had until 3 pm on our own, at which time we would have high tea, and then set out for the afternoon game drive at 3:30 pm.   That drive would start out quite warm, but we would be putting on our jackets after sundowners on the way back to camp.

Our game drives were in the national park, so there were strict rules.  There was no off road driving, so we had to stay on the “roads” (more like tracks) at all times, and we had to be out of the park by 6:30 pm.

We headed out on our first game drive in the Chobe National Park with Bonnie (sounds like Boney) and a family from England (Mark, Lucy, Louie and Max).  We saw impala, giraffe and buffalo, but we had a particular destination in mind.

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On the early morning game drive, the English couple with their two children had witnessed a leopard with a kill.  She had just taken down a male impala when they came upon her.  They saw her drag the impala into the bushes. There was a very good chance she was still at her kill, so we were headed in that direction to find out.

She was still there, and my sister got her first leopard sighting.  We were able to get quite close to the leopard because her belly was full and she was sleepy.  She had eaten part of the impala and was guarding the rest of it.  There were a few other vehicles that came up after us, so we moved on after watching her about 10 minutes.

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We moved on in search of more wildlife.   As we headed deeper into Chobe, our Toyota Land Cruiser quit.  Bonnie was able to start it twice, but after the third time, it was done.  Yes, another break down.

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We got out and stared under the hood, discussed the possible reasons for the stall, and radioed for help.  Unfortunately, our radio produced no such help.  It was about 4:30 pm when we first got stuck.  It starts to get dark around 6 pm and we were supposed to be out of the park by 6:30.  One other game drive vehicle from a different camp came by, and Bonnie asked the driver to contact our camp for a rescue.

We attempted a push start, with more human power than our previous break down, but it did not produce the same result.  We were stuck.

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With nothing else to do besides watch the African night descend upon us, we broke out the sundowners.

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Help arrived about 2 1/2 hours later, and we pulled into camp an hour late at about 7:30 pm, no worse for the wear.

We were disappointed to hear that we missed a possible lion sighting, as the other vehicle from our camp watched a pride of lions with cubs during our break down time, but these things happen.

We had a very good dinner, and headed to our tent with our hot water bottles.  All but our solar lights were out by 8 pm.

 

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Camp Kadizora Day Three: Wild Dogs!

An African Sunrise:

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This adventure to Africa is my fifth.  In all of those trips I have not seen the African wild dog.  It has been a mild obsession of mine over the last two trips.  My goals for this trip were only two; to see wild dogs, and visit Victoria Falls.  We chose this time of year because it is the best for Victoria Falls.  There is no particular time that you can choose to see the wild dogs.

In this part of Botswana, there is one pack of eight wild dogs.  They travel a wide area and are active mostly at night.

We left before sunrise as usual.  OC was tracking lions, stopping to check for fresh lion prints in the soft earth.

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On our drive east we saw some kudu, zebra, and a lone elephant who gave us a show of reaching high in a tree for something to eat.

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OC pulled over to speak with another guide who was stopped for coffee with his guests.  He gave OC some directions for an area where the dogs had been seen recently.  We drove slowly, looking for tracks.

At one point OC said for us all to keep an eye out as the dogs were hard see.  At this time of day they are resting in the shade.  It was like looking for a needle in a haystack, but this time we prevailed.  I spotted the tips of the ears of one dog, as the pack of eight lay in the shade of trees and logs.

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Thank the gods, I finally got to see the African wild dog, and it was as thrilling as I had hoped.  There are only 8,000 dogs left in African and only the one pack in this area.

We watched them for a while as OC radioed other guides to give our location.  When another vehicle arrived, we left to find a good spot for a coffee break.  I was over the moon happy.  This sighting had made my entire trip worth while.  Eleven years and five trips to Africa to finally see the wild dogs.  It was my sister’s third day of game drives, so lucky for her.

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We had a leisurely coffee break and made our way back to camp.

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After lunch and a rest, we headed back out for an evening game drive and sundowners.  Starting out from camp we came upon two large male kudu, who ran off as we drove by.  Kudu seem to be shy, and always hide or run off when the Land Cruiser approaches.

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Continuing towards the sunset spot we also saw a giraffe.

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Sundowners were enjoyed on the edge of a lake.  Hippos gave us a show as the sun went down and I had my customary Amarula over ice.  Local fishermen in a mokoro poled up and sold the guides some freshly caught fish.

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On the drive back to camp, with just about 2 km to go, a large porcupine ran from right to left directly in front of the vehicle and in full view of the headlights.  It was totally dark.  That was another rare sight and the perfect ending to a perfect day.

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