Midsummer Day

Saturday morning, Midsummer Day, we packed up from Ruissalo and drove back through Turku, east on E18, then turned south onto 180. This route would take us to Nagu/Nauvo, deeper into the archipelago. This destination was suggested by Pamela, as a spot we might like.

Crossing one of the bridges we got the smiley face for driving at the speed limit.

The Finnish archipelago is connected by many bridges and ferries, but we had only one to catch. The ferry between Pargus and Nagu departs every 15 minutes. Our timing was good, and there were only about ten cars lined up. The ferry was automated, lights showing which lane to pull into.

Between the ferry stop and Nagu, we saw one fox cross the road, and three large rabbits in a field. At first we thought they were dogs, due to their large size. But we doubled back to check, and sure enough, they were rabbits. The largest rabbits I’ve ever seen.

We passed though the little town of Nagu and drove the remaining 4 km to our next overnight spot at Hotel Stallbacken. It is a very pretty property in the country, with guests staying in a former sheep barn (beautifully renovated), and has a sauna.

Arriving well before check in, we hopped on bikes and pedaled back into Nagu. We stopped for fika at a home/cafe, and walked around the stone church dated 1767.

The church has a beautiful wood shingle roof.

A short distance away we found the bustling waterfront area of Nagu. It was much busier and a younger crowd than what we had experienced on Ruissalo. Shops and restaurants were open, it was packed with people, and boats were coming in and out. It had a party atmosphere.

We had a glass of wine at a very cute restaurant and did a little shopping. Eventually we climbed back on the bikes and headed back to the hotel.

We had reserved the sauna for one hour at 5 pm, but my sauna tolerance hasn’t built up and this was a really hot sauna. We were only able to stay in for 30 minutes, but it felt good.

The sauna house.

The dining room for guests includes an outdoor patio, and with perfect weather, we dined outside. We were so glad we did, because as we sat on the patio, a moose wandered through the field next door. The food was excellent.

Their salmon soup was very good. It took silver behind Hanku’s gold.

Everyone has been extremely nice. The young women who work at Hotel Stellbacken and served us dinner answered all our questions and gave us tips and information about the area. One had never seen a moose and was very surprised and delighted when the moose showed itself.

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Happy Midsummer! Hauskaa Juhannusta!

The official sunrise is 0403 AM and the official sunset here today is 1103 PM. So we should have five hours of darkness, but it isn’t very dark. The sun doesn’t go far below the horizon at all, so it is a twilight. I have been in the Mora region of Sweden for midsummer where the sun touched the tree tops, but here it does go below the horizon.

2:17 am Saturday morning.
3:39 am Friday morning.

There were many more boats in the marina on Thursday evening. On Friday many left. We think they were here preparing to head to the outer islands of the archipelago for the Midsummer weekend.

At 9 AM it was 68 F (20 C) with calm winds. We rented bicycles from the hotel and pedaled around the island. There is a very nice camping area at the very tip of the island, which has its own campsite sauna. People were already swimming at 9 AM.

Campsite sauna.

The bike path was well maintained and ran the the entire length of the island. We saw quite a few deer while riding.

A marina just up the road from our hotel has a very picturesque restaurant with an outdoor patio. A server there preparing to open said they are one of the few places open for Midsummer. We said we would be back for a late lunch.
We saw these very beautiful trees with almost silver leaves. I’m not sure what kind of tree it is.

We took a side road off the bike path and were rewarded with a pleasant surprise. Villa Kuuva was a beautiful fika stop. Built in 1850 the house has original windows, floors, and stove. It is truly beautiful and the owner will gladly tell you stories of Alexander III’s visit.

Villa Kuuva
Fika at Villa Kuuva.

After fika we cycled back to the hotel. As promised, we returned to the marina lunch spot for our late after midsummer lunch. It was a very good meal.

Smoked salmon. A perfect midsummer meal.

On the island of Ruissalo the University of Turku has a Botanical Garden. We visited the garden after lunch.

We were present for the flag raising ceremony.

And we joined in for the raising of the midsummer pole.

The midsummer bonfire in the background was not lit due to the dry conditions.

It was a beautiful midsummer, with the only disappointment the absence of the lighting of the bonfire. We later heard that it is a common occurrence due to dry conditions.

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Hanko to Turku

Reluctantly we left our friends in Hanko and drove to Turku. We will be spending Midsummer in the Finnish archipelago. True to the road signs, we did see a moose. It crossed the road just outside of Hanko. So far that is the only moose we have seen.

The drive was scenic, through mostly farm country.

In Turku we stopped for lunch and a walk along the river.

The Turku Cathedral

From Turku we drove the short distance to the island of Ruissalo. We will have two nights here at the Ruissalo Spa and Hotel, located in the middle of a natural park.

From the website:

Once the hunting island for the court of Turku Castle, the island is easily accessible by land or by sea. Scenic and well-maintained bike paths offer comfortable distances for the whole family. The rocky outcrops, beautiful sandy beaches, distinctive nature, rolling fields and pretty gardens will lead to love at first sight for all who visit the island.

From the hotels swim dock.
The midsummer bonfire prepped for lighting.
The view of the marina from our room.
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Images of Hanko, Finland

Hanko is a beautiful coastal town in southern Finland. There is a walking path along the water that leads out of town and takes you past villas, many with names and dates painted on the side.

Villa Mejia
Villa Margita 1890 along Appelgrenintie
Villa d’Angleterre 1881
The view of Italahti Ostra viken from the trail.
The House Of Four Winds.
I’ve tried salmon soup all over Sweden. This soup at Club Origo in Hanko is the best yet. It is the closest I’ve ever had to my mother’s own soup.
A shop in Hanko.
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On The Road Again

There is no better place than Finland and no better time than Midsummer to break a 15 month involuntary hiatus from travel. So here I am, in Hanko, Finland, as the “plus one” on another working holiday. It was not easy to travel in this barely post pandemic time. Armed with a CDC Covid vaccine card, a negative Covid test less than 48 hours old, and the appropriate Finnish government forms, it was still a tedious and exhausting experience. Our documents had to be verified for each leg of our journey. Still, when you are relaxing near the Baltic with nothing but the sound of the birds and the wind in the trees, it was worth the effort.

To make things even better, my dear cousins Pamela and Jani invited us for a sail on Pamela’s parent’s sailboat .

Marianne and Bengt are an experienced crew, so it made for a fun and relaxing day on the water. It was perfect weather as well.

We sailed into the Hanko harbor for lunch.

It is a busy waterfront at this time of year. Jani called Hanko “the Monaco of Finland.” We enjoyed a very nice lunch on the water. I was surprised by the intense sun and the warm temperatures.

After lunch we made our way back through the islands to Malou’s home port. It was a very special day and we can’t thank Bangt and Marianne enough for their gracious hospitality.

Sailing crew Bangt and Marianne.
The whole crew.

In the evening we checked into the Hotel Regatta, where we are staying until Thursday. My travel companion is here on business, while I am enjoying a break from work. We walked around Hanko in the evening. It is lilac season now in Finland, and we saw many beautiful bushes.

The Hotel Regatta.
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Fika

Swedish Apple Cake, perfect for afternoon fika.

Fika, is a lovely Swedish tradition that my family has adopted with gusto. Here at home, my parents and grandparents used to have coffee and a little something in the afternoon. As kids, we called it “3 o’clock nourishment.” We wouldn’t have the coffee part until later in life.

When visiting Sweden, my sister and I noticed the increased level of energy and excitement in some very aged Swedes as Fika was announced. We made sure to step aside as the Swedish octogenarians rushed to the Fika tables.

I read through many of my mother’s recipe books and decided to bake this Swedish Apple Cake.

I modified the recipe slightly, adding an additional chopped apple into the batter, and using only one 9 inch square pan. It had to bake 45 minutes instead of 25 minutes.

The apple cake prior to going into the oven.

There is even a book on Fika, written by Anna Brones & Johanna Kindvall.

This is part of the introduction to the book:

Functioning as both a verb and a noun, the concept of fika is simple. It is the moment that you take a break, often with a cup of coffee, but alternatively with tea, and find a baked good to pair with it. You can do it alone, you can do it with friends. You can do it at home, in a park, or at work. But the essential thing is that you do it, that you make time to take a break: that’s what fika is all about. At its core, fika means “to drink coffee.” But the meaning goes much deeper. Fika represents an entire culture; it carries as much meaning for Swedish social engagements as it does for food customs.

Brones, Anna. Fika: The Art of the Swedish Coffee Break. New York, Ten Speed Press, 2015.

I was quite pleased with the cake, and made it again. Here in the Northwest, Spring is still showery and coolish, so fika is a welcome afternoon treat.

Another fika option.

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Lilac Days at the Hulda Klager Lilac Gardens, Woodland, Washington

Peacock Lilacs at the Hulda Klager Lilac Gardens

Lilacs being my favorite flower, every Spring I hope to be able to make a trip home to Oregon in time to enjoy my mother’s lilacs in bloom. Luckily, this year my Spring trip coincided with the Lilac Days festival in Woodland, Washington. The early blooming lilacs were passed their prime, the mid blooming lilacs were perfect, and the late bloomers were yet to bloom.

The 1880s farm house at the Hulda Klager Lilac Gardens.

Hulda Klager began hybridizing lilacs in 1905 and was known as “The Lilac Lady.” This year the 1880s farm house was closed to guests, but the gardens were open. There are many varieties of lilacs. Thank goodness for the name plates, because without them it would be hard to remember all the names.

The Sensation Lilac with its name plate.
Sensation Lilac

I wandered the gardens and enjoyed the many varieties of lilacs and their beautiful fragrance.

Pink Elizabeth Lilacs
Glory Lilac
Maiden’s Blush Lilac
Carley Lilac
Tinkerbelle Lilac
Wolfii Lilac
President Grevy Lilac
Interlude Lilac
Donald Wyman Lilac
Moskvy Lilac

From the website lilacgardens.com:

The members of the Lilac Society put in many hours of hard work hoeing, spraying, weeding and pruning in order to restore the gardens to the condition they enjoyed under Hulda Klager’s care. The house was also restored and turned into a museum to honor The Lilac Lady. Much of Hulda Klager’s own furniture has been returned, along with other pioneer-era treasures from the Woodland area.

The woodshed, water tower, and carriage house have also been restored through another grant-in-aid from Washington State. The carriage barn houses a gift shop that offers souvenirs and craft items from local artists. The Lilac Society also revived her annual “Lilac Days” each spring when the lilacs come into bloom, selling lilac plants to visitors just as when Hulda Klager was there.

Frank Klager Lilacs
Sweetheart Lilacs
A very busy and happy bee leaves a lilac blossom.
Agincourt Beauty Lilac
The gardens include more than just lilacs. These pink dogwood trees were also in bloom.
Superba Lilacs
Bloomerang Purple Lilacs
Spokane Lilacs
Pink Ruth Lilac
White lilacs from my mothers own garden.

I got very lucky with the sunny weather at the Hulda Klager Lilac Gardens. Springtime in Oregon is predominantly rain showers.

My mother’s purple lilacs in the more typical rain.
Posted in Oregon, Seasons & Holidays | 1 Comment

Historic Timberline Lodge, Mt. Hood, Oregon

Timberline Lodge, Mt. Hood, Oregon, 15 minutes before sunrise.

My annual birthday trip this year was not out of the country, but I did get to a beautiful historic site that has personal and national significance.

https://www.timberlinelodge.com/

Built in 1937 and declared a National Historic Landmark in 1977, Timberline Lodge is also where my parents met in 1955. My mother worked as a waitress in the Cascade Dining Room and my father drove a snow-cat. He received an “Over-The Snow” plaque when he left the mountain, in honor of all the snow miles he’d driven.

The inside of the main wooden door to the lodge.
A wood carving above the fireplace in the Cascade Dining Room.
The Lodge, just before sunset.
The chair lifts at sunset.
Mt. Jefferson in the background.
The Ram’s Head bar.

My sister and I spent a few nights at the lodge, which is now open only to overnight guests, due to the Covid virus.

Mt. Hood at sunrise. The groomers are out early.

We were very lucky with the weather, getting clear, sunny days. The Magic Mile lift was open, so we got to ski that famously scenic run under almost clear skies.

At the top of the Magic Mile chair lift, Silcox Hut is in the background.

It was a very nice feeling to travel again. Like everyone else, my international trips were all canceled last year. Hopefully, soon we’ll all be vaccinated and our travels will return to normal.

In this photo from 1956, my mother shares a chairlift with her dog Kushkie.

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Last Look

San Pedro de Timote is a good place to find peace and relaxation. The food was good, but the desserts were great.

San Pedro de Timote from the tower.
On the day we left, we watched as the large family group started out on the morning ride.
It reminded me of the paintings in the library.

Leonardo and Brian, two of the waiters in San Pedro’s restaurant, were very helpful. We quickly learned to not miss postre at the end of the meal.

As we started to drive out of the property for the last time, we saw some of the horses from the fields come up to the watering trough.

Our last sight of the estancia was this mama and her baby, watching us closely, as we left the grounds.

Posted in Uruguay | 1 Comment

Getting Into The Gaucho Groove

We came to San Pedro for horseback riding and relaxation. We found both. Beto took us and one other guest on a very nice ride in the surrounding area. We saw several herds of horses and some cattle.

Me on Enfermera.
Beto leading the way.
We spot a herd of horses in the stand of trees.
Tucker on Cortico watch the horses.
I’m a convert to these saddles. They are the most comfortable saddles I’ve ever tried. I’m done with western saddles for good.
On another morning we rode with a large group. An Uruguayan family was visiting the ranch and everyone rode.
A barn.
A barn with crucified Jesus.

Here at San Pedro de Timote they really know how to throw an outdoor dinner party. There was a large corporate conference staying at the estancia when we first arrived. It was an agricultural group of some sort. We were lucky to be here during their last evening. The estancia put on an outdoor barbecue for about 100 people. They had two guitar players. It was wonderful to experience, although we do not eat meat.

Prepping for the big party.

On another evening they cooked out in front of the estancia. They build a large fire, and as the red hot coals fall, the coals are spread under the food for cooking. The food is not cooked over the flame.

The fire on the side drops coals, which are then shoveled under the meat.
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